What better ingredient for fragrances suitable for brides, then? Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild ), FreshCannabis Rose Kenzo LEau Par Kenzo Vera Wang Princess Night, The powdery sweetness of lilacs fill the air in suburban streets and parks in late spring: short-lived, but utterly beautiful, with their pollen-y, jasmine-like softness, and tantalising hints of almond and roses. It originated in India, Malaysia and Indonesia and made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route: patchouli is a fantastic insect repellent, effective against flies and other bugs. "Heliotrope is an herbaceous plant that produces small flowers with white, purple, or blue shades. Dolce & Gabbana LEau The One Chanel Gardnia Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Versace Yellow Diamond Even more confusingly, the perfume ingredient doesnt even come from amber itself that time-hardened resin of Pinus succinifera, which is often shaped into jewellery. "It first became popular in the 1920s with the launch of Chanel No. (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft Goutal Rose Pompon Este Lauder Knowing Nasomatto Black Afgano Most of us are unlikely to smell it growing wild, but apparently its deliciously, delicately sweet, in flower form. In Greek and Roman times, heroes were garlanded by laurel another name for bay - as a symbol of victory. Rochas Femme For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Theyre then steam-distilled to produce a gloopy, oily yellow compound, known in the business as iris butter. Revlon Charlie Silver. Guerlain Eau de Lit So its always blown our minds that patchouli isnt a wood, or a root: its actually a frilly green-leafed, purple-flowered member of the mint family, called Pogostemon patchouli. Aldehydes may be found in natural materials rose, citronella, cinnamon bark and orange rind, for instance but are also a family of synthetic chemicals, formed (heres the science bit) by the partial oxidation of primary alcohols. ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet Mohammed hung his shirt to dry in the sun. Narciso Rodriguez for Her Eau de Parfum And as with wine, petitgrains affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions its grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. Guerlain Champs Elyses 3. Amouage Ciel Pour Femme In some cases, the juice of the fruit from the Musa sapientum plant is distilled. Aniseed, licorice, fennel, tarragon: star anise reminds us of all of these. Miller Harris Fleur Ambre (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. 9 Brooklyn Superb floraliser. Chanel Chance The absolute created from the nut itself is sweet, but with a bitter edge (think Amaretto, here); almond can give a fragrance a marzipan quality, maybe even remind you of macaroons. The dried roots also make their way into pot pourri. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. Chanel Chance We all know bamboo. Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle Yves Saint LaurentLa Collection Nu. You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. "In the Aztec language, it's called 'the flower made of little bones,'" says perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. An annual-flowering member of the borage family, also known as cherry pie flower, youll often find Heliotropium arborescens on sale in nurseries and garden centres for summer bedding (and you can create a wonderfully scented display with the plants, which butterflies will also love). Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. Cranberries and blackberries have similar aroma chemicals, but mostly, perfumers turn to one of two synthetics to recreate raspberry-ness: frambonine or raspberry ketone (which can also be used as a raspberry flavouring). Burberry The Beat Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). Memo Sundance Raspberries quite often appear, nowadays, as part of a red berry accord in fruity-, or fruity-floral scents. And the difference shouldnt surprise us: pink pepper comes from the Brazilian pepper tree and the Peruvian pepper tree (relatives of mangoes and cashews), not the Piper nigrum plant which provides the spice we scrunch onto our food. Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose The history of incense itself goes back thousands of years in fact, the first perfumes were burned, not worn: perfume actually gets its name from per fumum, or through smoke. What does it smell of, in a fragrance? Who could resist rolling around in that? Actually, its a flower closer to the cottage garden pink similar to the variety so loved by British gardeners, and known as clove-pink which is used in perfumery. Penhaligons Peoneve Crabtree & Evelyn Wisteria Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. When you smell something sweet, powdery, fluffy-little-cloud-like in a perfume, chances are theres a touch of heliotrope in there. Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense Labdanum comes from the resin of the twigs and branches of a Mediterranean shrub widely found in the south of France, Spain, and North Africa. Certainly a note that makes our heart beat a little faster, when we smell it. But it also works brilliantly as a fixative: around 13% of all perfumes apparently contain at least a trace of frankincense. Shaped like a diamond grenade, Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb is a glittering explosion of fresh and sweet sensations and an endlessly sought-after scent. In fact, there are hundreds of species of geranium, with scents that conjure up many other plants: lemon, apple, lime, mint, orange, rose, citronella, camphor, pineapple, sage and more. Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumers arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. Guerlain Cuit Beluga Nobody grinds up metal and adds it to a perfume blend but the genius of perfumers is that they nevertheless have a way of conjuring up hints of iron and steel in a bottle, as an evocative fantasy note. Diptyque Opne Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan, Mimosa. Theres a touch of lilac about this feminine perfume note but a slightly spicy undertone that adds intrigue, at the same time, reminiscent of the cloviness of carnation. Jo MaloneGrapefruit Giorgio Armani Armani Code The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. ), The supposed Greek legend linked with the flower is well-known: Narcissus was a handsome youth who fell in love with his own reflection, on seeing it in a pool. This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. And with the profusion of gourmand fragrances out there, honey-lovers can easily find themselves in sweet heaven. Calvin Klein Escape. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Issey Miyake would like us to think so: his iconic LEau dIssey was created to conjure up the purity and clarity of water. Our love of cinnamon dates back thousands of years: 2000 years ago the Egyptians were weaving it into perfumes (though it probably originates way before that, in China). Heliotropes teamed with violets and iris for a talcum-powdery, lipstick-esque sweetness but as you may now have guessed, its actually very versatile, becoming almost mouthwatering when used alongside bitter almond, each ingredient turbo-charging the others marzipan-ish qualities. Fragonard Citron (Its even the name of a particular scent, from the Capri-based perfume house Carthusia). When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. David & Victoria Beckham Intense Instinct Unlike rose or jasmine, which are more familiar, you may never have smelled a magnolia up close but this family of flowering trees is worth sniffing out, especially the Magnolia grandiflorum variety. Narciso Rodriguez Essence Designed by the talented trio, Olivier Poleg, Carlos Benaim, and Domitille Berthier, this best-smelling perfume for women is like wandering through your own secret flower gardenbut after . ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. But in perfumery where its surprisingly widely-used - its woody, dry, green and almost paper-like, used to conjure up nature in both feminine and masculine fragrances. Goutal ParisMyrrhe Ardente Andy TauerUne Rose Vermeille In Brief Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is back for the 2023 edition Firmenich launches fragrance-making 'rules' to improve focus and boost attention Their products have unique scents with zero toxic or environmentally harmful ingredients. It then conjures up jasmine and orange blossom, and goes beautifully with green notes, and other floral ingredients. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce agarwood, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Different ionones have subtly different characters, though, ranging from soft violets in full bloom through the iris/earthy/woodsiness of an ionone variation by the name of methyl ionone. Chanel No. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. So the story goes, Ernest Beaux Chanels original perfumer either misread his sums, or accidentally tipped a much greater quantity of aldehydes into the sample of perfume he was preparing for the discerning Mademoiselle Chanel, creating an overdose with almost 1% aldehydes. Steam distillations used to extract the essential oil. Caron Tubereuse Miller Harris La Fume Boucheron Trouble Marshmallow isnt just a smell. "Bergamot is a fragrant fruit that grows on a small Italian evergreen tree called Citrus Bergamia," says Binder. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel, It sounds synthetic. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambre Brulant Maison Francis Kurkdjian Amyris Femme Bay laurel is evergreen (where would our gardens be without it? Some people find it salty, smooth, skin-like (it can have you sniffing your arm slightly compulsively! Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Its a-little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery qualities become even more versatile in the hands of perfumers: they know how Cashmeran almost melts into many types of ingredients to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes within a wide range of fragrance families. Jo Loves Pomelo French for Lily of the Valley, muguet is one of the three most used florals in perfumery. But perfume-wise, sugars star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of booziness. In Classic myth, the rosewas linked both with the Greek goddess Aphrodite and her Roman counterpart, Venus. But in the hands of a gifted nose? Floris Limes But indole can also be created synthetically, producing a crystal-like substance that smells of nothing so much as your great aunts mothballs, till its massively diluted. 9 High Line Grossmith Phul-Nana Miller Harris Terre de Bois, As a perfume ingredient, cannabis has been in the news recently as a controversial ingredient in actor Richard E. Grants debut scent. Frederic Malle Carnal Flower "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Guerlain Mitsouko Revlon Charlie Silver Azzaro Baccarat Rouge 540 Bath & Body Works Black Opium Burberry Bvlgari. Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud There are hundreds of different species of Narcissi today white, yellow, some with a touch of pink or orange (including our everyday daffodil) but not all are fragrant. GuerlainAqua Allegoria Bouquet de Mai Chopard Wish Lancme Trsor Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from a LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum angustifolium. Guerlain Insolence Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Creed Bois de Cedrat Hot, fresh, almost tingly to sniff: this top note perks up many masculine and some female scents, adding instant brightness. But theres also a teeny touch of vanilla to oak (synthetic vanillin, used in many baked goods and confectionery, is derived from wood shavings! A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Chanel No. Clinique Calyx The leaves and stems can be steam-distilled to produce oils, then, with quite different characters depending on the variety. An aldehyde (see below) with a characteristic green, musky odor, "Agrumen is a fragrance compound used as a base in perfume creation," explains Spongell CEO Elaine Binder. Its burned today in Catholic churches and Anglican high church ceremonies and perhaps as a result, its a love-it-or-hate-it ingredient, depending on whether you were forced to sit through endless sermons and hymns on Sundays. Donna Karan DKNY Illolahia says that ambergris is typically used as a fixative in perfumery, and has a subtle but long-lasting odor. Philospohy Baby Grace With recyclable packing materials and US-based manufacturing, we're enchanted by this sweet perfume . Cristobal Balenciaga Le Dix Chanel Cristalle Perfume ingredient chemicals are complex combinations of synthetic and/or natural substances which are added to products to give them a distinctive scent. Nasomatto Absinth. Notes are black cherry, almond, berries, bergamot, rose, vanilla, tonka bean, and black tea. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. In my perfumes, I love it - like a synthetic aldehyde - as it switches the light on, brings out the colours and contrasts. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan The more one studies its character that of natural musk tincture, the more contrasting, vibrant and oscillating it becomes: repulsive-attractive, chemical-warm, sweaty-balmy, acrid-waxy, earthy-powdery, fatty-chocolate-like, pungent-leathery, fig-like, dry, nutty and woody, to give just some impressions. Boucheron Boucheron Chopard Wish Pure The actual aroma compound is known as ethyl maltol: its softness almost melts into floral notes, delivering a flirty, playful femininity, as well as depth and intrigue. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. In rituals, sandalwood oil may be applied to the forehead, the temples, or rubbed between the eyebrows. "It has a light green aroma. Apples have been a part of fragrance creation right back to the medieval era of Arab perfumery. Acqua di ParmaIris Nobile, Koalas love it. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin Even the ingredients ancient civilizations used are still seen in trendy perfumery today: frankincense, jasmine, myrrh, lilies and honey. A key ingredient in old and new Arabic perfumery, renowned as an element within high-quality incense in Arabic, Japanese and Indian cultures, oudh has now definitively crossed over to the west. Plus entry to win $500 in store credit. 1 Marigolds the name comes from the phrase Marys gold, and refers to the Virgin Mary are members of the sunflower family, grown throughout the world. Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Runion and the Comoro Islands. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso Tiar flowers are related to gardenias: luscious white florals which scent the breeze of Tahiti, worn tucked behind the ear or as garlands. But how does it smell? Byredo Gypsy Water Paco Rabanne Ultrared C12 well, thats lilac or violets. (Its also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant though not in perfume!). Edelweiss does make an appearance in a couple of Swiss Army fragrances but its there, we suspect, more to make a link that evokes the wide open spaces of Switzerland than for the note itself. The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. It smells like cinnamon. And the rest, as they say, is history. The genius of perfumers is knowing just what they have to do, to blend those into perfectly constructed scents for us to wear. Quite aside from its uplifting qualities, yuzu is very useful to perfumers because it prolongs the life of other citrus notes, whose delicious freshness doesnt tend to linger for long. We know only that styrene might be an ingredient in any given fragrance because the International Fragrance Association, an industry trade group, publishes an online " Transparency List " of ingredients that perfumers say they use in formulas for consumer products. Rum itself dates back to the 17th Century and Caribbean sugar plantations: its distilled from molasses, the dark and syrupy by-product of sugar cane, and when aged in oak barrels takes on deep golden tones, and rich flavours. Jo Malone London Pomegranate Noir. Its extracted by steam distillation of freshly-picked flowers, which must be a gorgeous task. "There are two different extracts of clary sage: The oil is a bit more aromatic, while the absolute has notes of ambroxan, dried tea leaves, and gives a natural meadow effect., A commonly used perfume compound that smells like vanilla, coumarin is usually derived from the tonka bean (see below), but also found in lavender, sweetgrass, and other plants. Used with an amber note, it creates a real addiction' And Dior's Perfumer-Creator Franois Demachy adds: 'The tonka bean is a concentrate of sensations and aromas. The common ingredients found in perfume are benzyl alcohol, acetone, linalool, ethanol, ethyl acetate, benzaldehyde, camphor . The links are rooted in the tradition of the gantier parfumeurs, a guild of glove-makers in Paris who fashioned gloves for royalty and the aristocracy as far back as the 15th Century. James Heeley Esprit du Tiger 'The happiness of that afternoon was already fixed in her mind, and always would the scent of freesia return it to her mental sight, for among the roses and violets and lilies and wall-lowers, the smell of freesia penetrated, as a melody stands out from its accompaniment, and gave her the most pleasure.' The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Preceding the berries come green-and-purple-tinged bell-shaped flowers which do offer up a delicate scent but the sweet, subtly floral belladonna note used in fragrances is generally synthetic. The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) The Three Kings famously presented frankincense as one of the gifts to Baby Jesus: THATs how far back frankincense goes. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Acqua Universalis Succulent but somehow creamy and milky. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur Dolce & GabbanaThe One for Men Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC Almost spicy, so green and sweet, with hints of lemon: thats lily of the valley and a more spring-like scent its hard to imagine. Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Ever. Guerlain Chant DArome It has fruity undertones (peachy, pear-y, banana-y, apple-y), but complements white flowers wonderfully. Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Its an extraordinaryplant or rather, plants: there are more than 9000 species of grass. Shay & Blue English Cherry Blossom. Its the rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris which must be left for three to five years to mature. Katy Perry Purr Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. Gwen Stefani L We like this comment from Perfume Shrine, a great scent blog: When people complain I cant smell a thing!, its not necessarily anosmia, but too much ionones!, Goutal La Violette Weve been known to stand there, sniffing, for the sheer pleasure of it. Diptyque Tam Dao ', Goutal Paris Eau de Lavande Herms Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan Of course theres no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. Ralph Lauren Ralph Wild Ethyl maltol Dried fruit scent with a caramelized sugary scent. Andrea Maack Dark But smell carefully and you might pick up hints of pink jasmine or even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green undertones. Tom Ford Oud Wood. Used to impart fullness into fragrances. Each eclectic scent is packaged in a biodegradable pulp carton - a first in the beauty world - with an embossed lid made from recyclable paper packaging. Meo FusciuniNotturno, Lime blossom (a.k.a. Miller Harris Fleur de Sel The seeds and fruit are edible and used in many cuisines and soft drinks, the bark produces a gum that is used as a stabiliser (gum Arabic) and in the production for printing and ink; and the timber is used in furniture making. If youve ever walked in an evergreen forest, cedar will transport you back there, too. ), In perfumery, the not-quite-ripe peppercorns of the Piper nigrum vine are dried, crushed and steam-distilled to create an intensely-fragrant oil which is surprisingly complex: as well as delivering a burst of heat, its surprisingly fresh and woody, too, blending beautifully with citrus fruits like lemon, as well as aromatics including lavender, ginger, clove, coriander and geranium. There is an animalic, furry, dirty line. (It was one of the first juices, or perfumes, to be almost as clear as fresh water in colour, too.) Illicium verum has to be the most beautiful-looking spice ever: star-shaped, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. In a fragrance, teas almost as refreshing as in a china cup. (We love that its also known as the Forbidden Fruit, as well as one of The Seven Wonders of Barbados! Cool, dark, green: the leaves and the little black berries from this self-clinging evergreen plant can be steam-distilled and turned into a refreshing green fragrance top note, with just a dash of spiciness. Byredo Accord Oud Memo Shams Marc Jacobs DOT. Paco Rabanne 1 Million Discover the emblematic ingredients used in the House of Dior fragrances. La Prairie Silver Rain LArtisan Parfumeur Jatamansi Beauty The 35 Best Perfumes for Women for Every Occasion Get ready to meet your new signature scent.
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